Bead Room

Naomi knows: Tips for making resin ornaments

Troubleshooting and display ideas
by Naomi Fujimoto
Published: December 2, 2011
ornament-intro
Happy December!

If you're not a fan of overspending or overcrowded malls but still want to give gifts, consider holiday ornaments. They're pretty on the tree, of course, but they also make great last-minute party favors or hostess gifts.

Check out our free "Merry messages" project for instructions on how to make resin "ho ho ho" ornaments and a "merry" necklace.

Working with resin can be challenging, but here are a few tips on how to make your ornaments truly shine.
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1. Let the adhesive dry.

This is easier said than done. In my ornament-making zeal, I didn't allow the Mod Podge to dry in one of my bottle cap bezels. So it looks like my dog, Papaya, is trapped in a snowstorm.

The second try: I sealed the image with Mod Podge and allowed it to dry. Then I adhered it to the bottle-cap bezel and allowed it to dry. I glued a red flatback to her nose (in the photo!) and allowed it to dry. I can't overemphasize this: Allow stuff to dry.

Finally I mixed up some Ice Resin and carefully filled the bezel. Ta da! A clear, glass-like finish tied up with a little bow (see the second ornament).

That said, I can't quite bring myself to throw away my resin "don't." I just pretend that I was going for a snow-globe effect.


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2. Fill the resin in layers.

This goes along with the "Allow to dry" advice: Never overfill a bezel. Instead, for a domed effect, pour an additional layer after the previous layers have cured.

In the bar-shaped ornament, that ginormous bubble wasn't intentional. (Though, I do like that it highlights a few lucky numbers.) After the first layer cured, I should have adhered the fortune to it. Because I skipped that step, resin seeped under the fortune and created a bubble.

For the heart ornament, patience helped me achieve the glassy finish: After the first layers cured, I added one last layer to create a domed effect.

As I get more practice with resin, I've found that it's best to mix up tiny batches. I always end up using less than I mix. Also, I don't typically pour the resin. Instead, I use a craft stick to drip resin into the bezel. It's slow but lessens the risk of overfilling and bubbling.
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3. Attach a glue-on bail.

If you make resin ornaments from molds, one option is to adhere a bail to the back. This is a good option if you don't want to make a hole in the finished piece and it isn't too heavy. First I made hearts by filling candy molds with dyed resin and sprinkles. For the larger hearts, I used Dazzle-Tac to attach leaf bails from Knot Just Beads.

For each of the smaller hearts, I attached a plain bail (an oval with a loop). Then I tied waxed cotton cord in a lark's head knot.

To tie a lark's head knot: Cut a 6–8-in. (15–20 cm) piece of cord (or ribbon) and fold it in half. String both ends through the bail's loop and back through the cord loop. Pull the ends to tighten.

Finish by tying an overhand knot with both ends.

For a fancier presentation, string a 5–6-in. (13–15 cm) piece of 2–3 mm link chain and attach the end links with a small jump ring.
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4. Make a hanger from wire or flexible beading wire.

This is purely a question of preference. If I'm giving ornaments as gifts, I like to use a pretty ribbon or a wire hanger. For example, in the small ornament shown, I used a Dremel to drill a hole in the bone. Then I tied a ribbon bow and attached a wire hanger.

To make a wire hanger: Cut a 4-in. (10 cm) piece of 20-gauge wire. Make the first half of a wrapped loop. Attach the ribbon (or the ornament itself) and complete the wraps. Curve the wire around a pen barrel. Make a coil at the end of the wire as desired. Hammer the wire.

Another option is to use flexible beading wire: Cut a 5–6-in. (13–15 cm) piece of .014 or .015 beading wire and string the bail or hole of the ornament. String a crimp bead over both ends and crimp it. Trim the excess wire. You can use .018 or .019 to hang heavier pieces, but I like the thinner wire because it's less visible.

If I'm making ornaments for myself, I actually prefer the cheap wire ornament hooks. I buy them in green because they blend with my tree.

Happy holidays!


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WEB EDITOR BEADSTYLE MAGAZINE from WISCONSIN said:
Sarah, I just saw your comment today, so I apologize for the delay in replying.

Because I made the hearts in a class with Sherri Haab this summer, I don't have the pigment in front of me. But I remember that it was powdered, so my guess is that it was Misty Lavender:

http://www.sherrihaab-shop.com/resin-supplies/colorants/pearl-ex-pigment-powder.html

I'm more familiar with Castin' Craft liquid dye:
http://www.fusionbeads.com/shop/productchart/3358/

For purple, I squeeze just a drop of red and blue into the resin after I've mixed it up. A drop more of either shade will produce anything from magenta to amethyst.

As for your piece that never cured, is it possible that you added too much pigment, which then threw off the ratio? More likely, I'm guessing that either the resin proportions were off *before* you added the pigment, or the pigment wasn't fully incorporated in the mixture before you poured it. - Naomi



WEB EDITOR BEADSTYLE MAGAZINE from WISCONSIN said:
Hi Pamela,
You can buy molds from many vendors, including Resin Obsession:
http://resinobsession.com/Resin-Ready-made-Molds.html

I've also made molds (I used a dog treat to make the dog bone mold) using both Easy Mold and another product (whose name I can't recall... sorry). Both gave me good results. Though you can condition your mold with a mold release, sometimes sticking occurs because the resin hasn't properly cured.

I don't know specific resins that damage photos. If you don't want to use Mod Podge or a similar sealant, use clear packing tape to seal the image first. Make sure to seal both sides of the image and leave a bit of a tape edge around the image. And make sure the tape is completely adhered to prevent bubbling.

Hope this helps. Thanks for your questions!
Naomi
PAMELA WEICK from CALIFORNIA said:
Great information. Thank you so much. Do have a couple of questions....
1. What will Resin Not stick to? What besides candy molds can be used for shapes ?
2. I was told that some resins interact with sealers and will damage photo/paper. Is this true ? If so, what brands should be used together so this does not happen ?
Thank you for your answers
SARAH PARSONS said:
What do you use to dye the resin purple? I've tried a few dyes added to the resin and found it changed the make up of the resin so it never dried. I left a piece for a week and it was still not dry?
WEB EDITOR BEADSTYLE MAGAZINE from WISCONSIN said:
Thanks, Sandee! I learned by making lots of mistakes first (as you can see!), but I really enjoy working with resin.

We got another great troubleshooting tip from Theresa Abelew at Art Jewelry: "Depending on the resin you use you can usually fill in the bubbles. It's happened to me before and you can drill two holes through the top cured layer (be careful not to go too deep and hit the paper). Drizzle resin in one hole and air can escape through the second. You may have to do an extra top coat once the bubble is filled, but it can look like there was never a bubble in the first place."

Thanks, Theresa!
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